Description
Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve Salmon
Two faces of one watch: modern color and traditional watchmaking art
Ten years ago, the Moritz Grossmann Glashütte I/SA watch brand added a linear power reserve indicator to the Benu model line. The limited edition BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon now reinterprets this model.
The novelty captivates with its two faces: while the stainless steel case and the sleek dial, which for the first time comes in the color salmon, have an almost sporty expression, the back of the watch with the finely finished 100.2 movement reveals the traditional watchmaking art of the manufacture.
The Manufacture’s expertise
The combination of haute horlogerie and fine aesthetics is based on the versatile skills of Moritz Grossmann. In the manufactory, which continues the legacy of one of the most eminent watchmakers from Glashütte’s history in a contemporary way, not only elaborately decorated movements are created, but also parts of the decor. For example, the delicately tapered hands in the rhombus shape typical of BENU are made by hand and tempered in blue.
Fresh color
In the new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon limited edition of 50 pieces, the dial captivates with its warm radiance. It is in the color salmon – a harmonious blend of pink and orange, which has a modern and delicate freshness. The light shade is often said to have a relaxing and positive effect.
At Moritz Grossmann, it unfolds on a dial and is combined with printed Arabic numerals in the color blue, designed in a clear typography. A discreet frame is provided by the dark gray minute track.
The linear power reserve indicator in the upper half of the dial is formed as a barshaped display element and refers to the movement’s power reserve in white and blue. This is made possible by a differential gear. When the movement is fully wound, the display appears completely white; when the power reserve decreases, the colored, blue portion of the bar increasingly appears.
Perfect mechanics with innovative extras
The sporty and elegant appearance of the watch is contrasted by a traditional mechanical hand-wound movement: the calibre movement 100.2, whose fine finishing is revealed through the glass back. The calibre 100.2 is an extension of the calibre 100.1 and is constructed as a classic pillar movement with a 2/3 plate. This bears the characteristic Glashütte stripe finish and reveals the shock-resistant Grossmann balance, which is held by the hand-engraved balance cock. Also typical of Moritz Grossmann’s modern calibres are white sapphires as jewels, set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws.
The movement features a sophisticated hand setting mechanism, which is regulated by an additional pusher below the crown. This construction prevents foreign particles from entering the case when pulling the crown to adjust the time. It also avoids unintentional adjustment of the hands by pushing the crown back.
This is made possible by a mechanism invented by Moritz Grossmann, which changes the function of the crown by a short pull to set the hands and at the same time stops the movement. After setting the hands, the crown does not have to be pushed back. Indeed, the movement is restarted via the pusher below the crown and the crown is thus reset to the winding function.
Limited edition of 50 pieces in stainless steel
The new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon is limited to 50 pieces and has a slim, three-piece stainless steel case with a filigree bezel. The case is worn with a handstitched navy blue alligator leather strap.
Technical data
Movement: Manufactory calibre 100.2, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts: 227
Jewels 26 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement Lever escapement
Oscillator Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve,
Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions: Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher, power reserve indicator
Operating elements Crowns in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in stainless steel to start the watch
Case dimensions Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.65 mm
Movement dimensions Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.4 mm
Case Three-part, stainless steel
Dial Solid silver, salmon with blue Arabic numerals
Hands Manually crafted, steel, annealed in blue
Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid prong buckle in stainless steel
Special features Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of
movement with lateral pusher; bar-shaped powerreserve indicator with two-coloured display segment driven by a differential wheel train; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winder; stop seconds for hand setting
