Description
Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Steel
Reference: MG-003327
The stunning Tremblage collection reinterprets a time-honoured engraving technique that emphasises Moritz Grossmann’s commitment to continuing the fine art of German watchmaking through horological skill and precision.
The intriguing dial is created using the historically renowned engraving technique known as tremblage. Moritz Grossmann has delivered a new lease of life to this technique by adding their hallmarks of elegant design, vintage style and top-quality, in-house mechanics.
The history of Tremblage
As a skill practised by ancient civilisations, decorating surfaces by means of engraving is an ancient art that has been cultivated for several thousand years. Traditional techniques have been continuously refined over the centuries and gave rise to the special form of decoration known as tremblage.
In their century-old book “Anleitung zur Erlernung der Gravierkunst” (Instructions for learning the art of engraving), authors Paul Hanff and Robert Neubert refer to the technique as “Tambulieren”.
According to Hanff and Neubert (1921), the engraver must set one corner of the special burin engraving tool into the metal and constantly move it “back and forth, from right to left, from one corner to the other”. It was this movement that gave the technique its name – the French word “tremblant” which simply means “to tremble”. Depending on the movement, the tremblage stroke can be executed finely or coarsely but either finish takes a great deal of practice to execute uniformly. Only through uniformity can the desired look – an impressive, shimmering, rough and matt surface, is created.
In this manner Moritz Grossmann has fashioned its Tremblage dials from German silver, finished by hand using a range of burins – entirely in keeping with a tradition that has been handed down from generation to generation.
Hand engraving in German silver: fascinating charm
Material and surface form a fascinating liaison. German silver is an alloy of copper, nickel, zinc and other metals to give a fine result that is frequently used in historical watches and movements. Thanks to the surface treatment, this alloy produces a silver-like hue with an aesthetic vintage look.
The three-dimensional appearance of the dial underscores the effect: the numerals of the hours and circular small seconds rise above the surface, as does the historic “M. Grossmann” logo from 1875, acknowledging Moritz Grossmann, the famous watchmaking pioneer who gave his name to the Glasshuette manufactory.
The appliqués are not mounted, on the contrary, the base of the dial has been cut out and removed so that the logo, numerals and seconds circle remain in relief. A task that also requires meticulous care to create clean edges and even heights. The top of the numerals, logo and seconds circle are also given a flat polish finish to accentuate the details and enhance contrast.
Only once these steps have been completed to standard can the painstaking tremblage process begin. A single dial can take an engraver several days to complete before being passed onto the next stage where the dial undergoes the meticulous craftsmanship of the finishers.
The result is exquisite – a uniquely crafted work of art with an even, fine grain that softens the effect of incident light and lends a wonderfully matt appearance to the tremblage surface. The lavishly flat polished raised elements create a lustrous contrast and distinctively classic aesthetic.
Manufactory movement
The finest mechanics are at work beneath the dial. Turning the TREMBLAGE model over reveals Moritz Grossmann’s manually wound calibre 100.1 through the generous exhibition case back. Designed entirely in the spirit of the old master, Moritz Grossmann, this movement also carries on his dedication to innovation and progress.
The calibre incorporates innovative developments from the manufactory, such as a newly configured oscillator. Optimised for artisanal manufacturing techniques, the ingenious design of the Grossmann balance improves the adjustability of inertia and achieves high kinetic energy combined with minimised air resistance and the smallest possible mass.
The sophisticated design of the pillar movement, which, like the dial, is made of untreated German silver, is mesmerising, as is the detailed hand finishing of all components. The German silver train bridge was endowed with a granular surface using an elaborate artisanal process, resulting in a smooth finish. The all-round edges are bevelled by hand. Their polished surfaces lend them a certain, lustrous appeal. Moritz Grossmann’s signature is hand-engraved in a historic cursive script – a homage to the master’s vintage pocket watches. The individual movement number is also engraved here in a cursive script. Both the balance and escape-wheel cock are also hand-engraved with a floral pattern. Traditional finishes have also been applied to other surfaces. The ratchet wheel, for example, boasts three-band snailing. White sapphires as bearings, held by gold chatons and fastened by brown-violet screws, contribute to the unique look of the watch.
This piece not only delivers the best of Moritz Grossmann’s fine watchmaking and attention to detail but also gives its owner a piece of watchmaking history that is both rare and beautiful.
The high polish on the stainless steel case frames the elegant dial perfectly to deliver a slightly more contemporary aesthetic to the overall piece.
Technical data
Movement: Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts: 198
No. of jewels: 20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Oscillator Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance: Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions: Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Operating elements: Crown in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in stainless steel to start the movement
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41.0 mm, height 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 36.4 mm, height 5.0 mm
Case: Three-part, stainless steel
Dial: German silver, tremblage
Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a blue hue
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with pin buckle in stainless steel
Special features: Dial tremblage, Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver;
2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; grained train bridge; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
